Chambers at Large in Alleppey & Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala, Indi
- Amelia Chambers
- 3 minutes ago
- 4 min read
One of the highlights of my journey around Kerala was an overnight boat trip on one of the many rivers that make up this lush state. I was told the rooms were basic and small, which wasn’t true. The bedroom was the same size as many hotel rooms, and the bathroom had a western toilet and a shower with hot running water. It wasn’t the Ritz, but it certainly wasn’t a hovel.
I spent most of the time on deck admiring the numerous birds that inhabit the area. Fortunately one of my travelling companions was a keen ornithologist and pointed out, amongst others, a Brahminy Kite and a Pond Heron, the former having spectacular golden plumage. Taking photographs of them in flight proved problematic as they are so quick, but it was fun to watch and learn.
One drawback in Kerala is that alcohol is not sold nor consumed openly. Hotels may sell wine and beer, neither of which were particularly good and getting a G&T was almost out of the question. I even witnessed beer being served in a teacup, and one fellow traveller, wanting to enjoy a beer outside, meant the glass was obscured by newspaper so the contents could not be seen!
Having lazed about on the waters of Kerala my fellow travellers and I made our way to Thiruvananthapuram, which is the capital of state. It is where Richi Sunak’s father had a business and is the home of the largest mall in the world owned by the richest man in Kerala.
A statue of Gandhi sits in front of the government building which was closed, being a Sunday, but the streets were busy as people were there to visit Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple dedicated to the Hindu god, Vishu.
Not being a Hindu I was not allowed inside, but seeing the magnificently decoration outside was enough. The roof is a mass of intricately carved figures and the golden stone shone brightly in the morning sun.
There is a strict dress code for Hindus and all the people I saw entering were beautifully attired. The men wore black or white dhotis and were bare chested, but decorated with bead necklaces, the women were wearing colourful saris. All were unshod. People queued patiently to enter the temple in which Lord Vishnu rests on a serpent.
The temple has become famous because of underground vaults opened in 2011. Inside were golden and bejewelled treasures calculated to be worth tens of billions of dollars. One vault, named Vault B, remains unopened, as there are no visible locks, bolts or latches and it is said to be protected by a serpent carving known as Naga Bandham (a mystical seal). Priests believe it can only be opened by the recitation of a sacred chant but, should the door be forced open, it will end in disaster.
There are tales that people have heard hissing behind the doors, adding to the rumour that the temple is protected by snakes. Some believe that Vault B contains ancient knowledge, powerful relics and sacred objects, but the temple is under the guardianship of the Travancore Royal Family and the unopened vault will remain closed.
Outside stalls were open for business on the laneway to the temple selling religious artefacts, clothes, delicious snacks, and ice cream. The area was abuzz with people, but just down a small alleyway, about 100 metres from the hubbub lies Kuthira Malika Palace, which is famous for its 122 wooden horse carvings. It is now a museum with fabulous ivory thrones, beautiful mirrors and murals, but photography is not allowed and therefore I cannot share any pics of my time there.
The palace is home to the royal family who serve the temple and traditional roles and rituals of the temple are still maintained. It is surprisingly quiet, with lovely gardens, a stark contrast to the busy streets outside its walls.
The city of Thiruvananthapuram was our last port of call and I have to thank my fellow travellers for being such lovely companions and my guides, Shyam and Gopak, for showing me around. A big shout out to our coach driver and his assistant who welcomed us each morning with a smile and navigated the winding roads brilliantly. They all made the trip very worthwhile. Thank you, gentlemen.
I hope my blogs have shown that the state of Kerala is very different from other regions of India and I’d recommend the tour I did via Mercury Holidays, flying out from Heathrow. My next blog is a little closer to home as I spent a couple of days in London exploring lesser known museums on my return.
Thanks for reading and safe travels.
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Here are my other blogs documenting my time in Kerala
And here are my blogs regarding my exploration of northern India which is a must see for all intrepid travellers.
And finally my blog on the tiger safaris I did in three of the national parks. Just amazing!
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