Chambers at Large in Belfast, Northern Ireland: HMS Caroline, Queens University and the Botanic Gardens
- Amelia Chambers
- Apr 15
- 4 min read
Whenever possible I fly in and out of Belfast International Airport in order to access Europe, and from George Best Airport (named after the city’s legendary soccer star) to go to London. On my return from Turkey I decided to spend a couple of days in the city and I couldn’t have chosen two better days. Sunshine, blue skies and unseasonably warm weather encouraged me to walk almost 15km on the first day alone. Belfast is a very accessible city and I set off early to explore the Titanic Quarter.
It was far too good a day to go into the Titanic Museum, (and I did do the tour about ten years ago). It is a must to do in Belfast, and two large gantries, named Samson and Goliath, dominate the skyline. They are a reminder of what was once a vital shipbuilding industry.
The docks are still relatively busy and I walked along the Maritime Mile, a lovely pathway to HMS Caroline, a WWI warship, now permanently moored in Belfast where, during WWII, it was a training ship.
I was the first visitor of the day and was given my own private tour, there being no other visitors up and about so early. A film explained the Battle of Jutland, HMS Caroline being the only survivor of this intense naval engagement, which took thousands of lives in one single day and played a crucial part in the Allies winning the war.
The interior of the ship has been fully renovated and I was struck by the difference between the officers’ quarters and those of the general crewmen. The captain and officers had cabins and small beds.
The crewmen had to make the most of sharing a large room with hammocks hanging from the ceiling. The officers sat at a dining table on comfortable chairs, with crockery and silverware; the crewmen had to make do with more basic tableware and bench seating.
The men who worked in the engine room endured loud noise and high temperatures in a dark, claustrophobic setting. I didn’t want to think about the smell, especially when I learned the men were wearing the most uncomfortable of uniforms. So much so they used the rivets in the walls as a scratching post!
As it was Women’s History Month I was taught about the women who contributed to the naval war effort and who served in the armed forces. Many worked in communications, (including code breaking) and did numerous administrative duties, which often go unrecognised. Others were nurses in naval hospitals or worked in supplies, responsible for food distribution and transportation of equipment. More dangerous jobs included the making of ammunition including the shells for the cannons on board the ship; the monitoring of coastlines and even repairing warships, submarines and destroyers. It was certainly an eyeopener for me as I had not considered women doing such heavy manual work in the early 20th century.
The tour was fabulous and I have to thank the young woman who showed me around and answered all my questions. My ticket lasts for a year, so I will return in the winter months and take in the Titanic Museum too, which now includes the SS Nomadic, a sister ship berthed alongside, which transported passengers to the Titanic in 1912.
A leisurely walk back along the Maritime Mile informed me of the history of Belfast’s docklands and I became fascinated by The Great Light, a rare 130 year old lens, one of the largest and strongest ever built. It was used in a lighthouse on Tory Island, off the northwest coast of County Donegal. I had visited the area just after the Covid epidemic when everyone was staycationing.
Crossing the Queen Elizabeth Bridge I made my way to the city centre, passing the Albert Clock, arriving at Donegall Square, where the impressive City Hall, built in 1906, majestically stands .
As the weather was glorious I decided to take a bus to the Botanic Gardens, about 3km outside the city next door to Queen’s University, a college that dates back to 1845 and was named after Queen Victoria.
The gardens are free to visit and it seemed the entire student body had taken the opportunity to sunbathe on the lawns, sit and read on the benches, or wander around the grounds which are beautifully landscaped.
The greenhouses were warm and humid, but filled with verdant plants and blooms from around the world. Beautiful.
Time was ticking by so after a late lunch I decided on some retail therapy back in the city centre where the streets were thronged with shoppers.
Belfast is a fabulous city with its own ice hockey team. There is plenty to see and do, and I’d advise anyone to take the bus around the city in order to get one’s bearings, see the murals, the parliament buildings and the fantastic Victorian architecture. I will certainly be spending another couple of days in this city to catch up with Crumlin Jail, the War Museum, the castle and a return visit to the zoo. I might even see an ice hockey game!
Thanks for reading. Safe travels.
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I mention Tory Island in this blog in the County of Donegal. Find out more about this stunning area by clicking on the link
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