Chambers at Large on the Roads in Kerala, at Athirapally Falls, and Thrissur, India
- Amelia Chambers
- Feb 7
- 4 min read
Updated: Mar 4
The drive from Kochi to Athirapally Waterfall was an eye-opener. It revealed the wealth of India and its transformation into a first-world country. The houses along the way were large, almost like mansions, set in beautiful gardens filled with numerous plants and trees. Every driveway seemed to host a vehicle, whether it was a car, motorbike, van, or moped.
As we continued, the houses gave way to lush forests. This area boasts a biodiverse ecosystem teeming with wildlife. An electric fence cordoned off the region, with signs warning of elephants and wild animals crossing the road. This usually happens at night or towards dusk. Arriving at the falls at midday meant we only encountered monkeys and large squirrels.
My fellow travellers and I were cautioned not to encourage the monkeys. They have learned how to open soft drink bottles! One fellow traveller even spotted a little monkey enjoying a Cornetto.
Being a Sunday, the falls were relatively busy. Families flocked to the river to take a paddle and snap numerous photographs. Several people approached us, asking to take our pictures. Being white, grey, and aged seems to have its appeal! I don’t mind having my photo taken; it gives me a chance to chat with locals and learn more about the area and life in India. It’s surprising how much we all have in common, no matter where we are in the world.
One woman I spoke with was an English teacher. Another had beautiful henna decorations on her hands. A gentleman out with his family told me that the area is frequently used by the Indian film industry. I mentioned that I had just watched the movie Eko on Netflix, which is set in Kerala. He encouraged me to explore more films by the same director. Eko is a terrific film—a slow-burn thriller that’s quite different from Hollywood (or Bollywood, for that matter). Trust me, take a look! You’ll enjoy the marvellous scenery if nothing else.
After enjoying an hour in the open air, we drove on to Thrissur. The landscape was dotted with banana trees, palm oil trees, jackfruit trees, and rubber trees—all providing income for the local people. In the city of Thrissur, we admired Our Lady of Dolour’s Basilica, considered the third tallest church in Asia and the tallest in India.
Religion plays a significant role in India. Christianity is influential in Kerala, but Hinduism is the foremost religion, with Islam coming in third. I noticed a remarkable tolerance towards all beliefs. In Kerala, Roman Catholic churches stand beside Orthodox ones, adjacent to Hindu temples and Islamic mosques. There are also numerous roadside shrines dedicated to various deities and saints. I even spotted one devoted to St. Patrick!
The buildings for worship are enormous. The Christian churches are bustling every Sunday. Since Christians eat meat, the area has butcher stalls selling beef, pork, lamb, and goat. This is why there are no cows wandering the streets; they graze peacefully in the fields.
Vadakkunnathan Temple, an ancient Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, stands tall in the centre of Thrissur, which means "the city of the sacred Shiva." This temple is over 1200 years old and is in pristine condition, having been conserved using ancient methods and rituals. Although I couldn't enter, I was told there are ancient murals on the walls, some over 400 years old. There’s even a theatre hall inside the complex used for Sanskrit theatre forms.
I learned more about these performing arts at the Kalamandalam School of Arts and Culture, where students begin their studies at the age of 13. The selection process for the school is quite stringent. Potential candidates must sit an exam and pass an interview, but all castes and religions are welcome to apply. The regime at the school is rigorous. Students live with a teacher, who acts as the head of the family. Their day begins at 4:30 AM!
In the morning, students study performing arts, while academic subjects are taught in the afternoon, just like in most schools. Exams are held three times a year.
We were allowed to observe some classes where students learn to tell stories through gestures, body movements, and facial expressions. These can be incredibly subtle—a slight eyebrow movement, a pointed toe, or a gentle inclination of the head can convey so much!
In one room, a group of students danced to music played on drums made from the wood of a jackfruit tree. I found the drums exceedingly loud and worried about the musicians' hearing, but they assured me it was not a problem.
In another classroom, students learned how to apply intricate make-up, which is even more challenging as it must be made from scratch. The silent concentration in that room contrasted sharply with the lively drumming from the other.
We were treated to a performance on stage that was energetic and beautifully synchronised. I was also captivated by the architecture of the building, particularly the pillars inlaid with figures in poses similar to those the students were emulating.
Kerala is proving to be a progressive area of India, showcasing a tolerance for religion, stunning natural beauty worthy of film, and a place where tradition is treasured while modernism is embraced. But my visit was far from over, as you will see in my next blog!
Thanks for reading. Safe travels!
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My previous blog concerning Kerala tells of my arrival and stay in Kochi. You can read about it by clicking on this link.
I’ve been to India three times, and you can read about my exploration of the north of the country via these links:
And my safari in the national parks in search of tigers was most successful. I saw leopards, guar, and so much more. Please click on the link to join me on my travels through the national parks.
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