Chambers at Large in Search of Tigers in the National Parks of Ranthambore, Pench & Kanha, India

Amelia Chambers
Jun 1
5 min read

I set myself a mission in 2025 – to see tigers in the wild and my first two excursions were in Ranthambore National Park. It was a misty January morning and I wore two hoodies, thus having two hoods to keep my head warm, but then I couldn’t hear the guide! I decided to forgo the hoods, but not the blanket to put around my knees. I managed to secure a front seat in the jeep, which was a little more sheltered than the seats in the rear of the vehicle and a little less bumpy!

The entrance to the park is manic. Cows and boars wander the streets and hawkers of hats, flak jackets, sweatshirts, T-shirts gather around the jeeps hoping tourists will buy their wares.

All the parks are filled with deer and monkeys, living together in a symbiotic relationship, warning when tigers approach.

Mongoose

I had seen crocodiles in Sri Lanka and in Vietnam and sure enough they were in the park too, disguised as rocks, but the tigers remained elusive. I was lucky to spot mongooses, antelope, and many birds including a dusty eagle owl and kingfishers.

It was only at the end of the day that we were treated to the sight of a sloth bear lying on the ledge of a rocky cliff face, living up to its name, being slothful. I was disappointed not to see any tigers, but was told it was rarer to see a bear in the early months of the year as they are usually hibernating, so I was mollified a little.

BUT, set on seeing tigers in the “wild”, I returned to India four months later in May, venturing south east to Pench National Park. Out in a jeep once again, and seated at the front, I was rewarded by sighting two leopards, one crossing the road right in front of me., the other lounging in a tree, having eaten its fill.

My journey had not been in vain, although the sighting of tigers was from too great a distance.

I also caught sight of wild dogs and I met the guar, a huge bovine species, which can remain a little reclusive in the winter. A bull weighing at least a ton is one of the only animals tigers tend to avoid, although they would tuck into a calf if the need arose. Tigers only eat once every two to three weeks and several of us agreed that wild boar, a tiger staple after venison, is extremely tasty and they roam the park usually rooting under the trees!

On then to Kanha National Park and there I struck gold, tiger gold! I came across at least seven different tigers, and spotted many more than once. A large male took up residence in a mud pool and could be found there on a couple of occasions and others took to sleeping on the shores of a watering hole. Tigers sleep almost 20 hours a day and, in 39 degree heat, who could blame them!

The highlight was when a tigress walked right out into the road in front of my jeep. My dear driver managed to take a fabulous video of this magnificent cat striding out of the grass towards us then handed me the phone, but I was too mesmerised to continue filming! I was resting my left arm on the door of the jeep, but as the tigress turned to walk towards me, I slowly brought my arm down to my side and just stared, spellbound. It then turned away, walked into the grass and was lost to sight, but it’s as clear as day in my mind’s eye!

My fellow travellers had an avid interest in birds and I have to say their enthusiasm was infectious. The Indian Roller Bird is absolutely beautiful and I managed to spot bee-eaters, herons and kingfishers, all of which are most graceful. A big thank you to my travelling companions, especially for sharing their wonderful photographs. It is much appreciated.

I was also treated to a peacock strutting his stuff, trying to attract the attention of a peahen who didn’t want to know!

The sound of the cuckoo was mind numbing. Colonial residents thought the bird was chanting “brain-fever” and its three note call really becomes an earworm. The bird is relentless and I fully understood how it would drive some crazy. (Listen closely at the end of the video above!)

Jackals were active early morning, hanging out with the deer, even though a fawn would be a meal and we saw a jackal eating with deer looking on. We were told the deer were checking to ensure the fallen fawn was dead, which it was. I only wonder what would have happened if it wasn’t.

Later vultures descend clearing up the inevitable detritus. Spotting them in the trees wasn’t easy, they are so well camouflaged, but then so many of the animals are difficult to spot and I have to thank all of the guides who accompanied us on our safaris, they were a real asset.

I also have to thank the staff of the four star Tiger Den Resort in Ranthambore, the Pench Jungle Camp and the Kanha Jungle Lodge where I stayed. The lodges were fabulous, all en-suite, all with AC and all were comfortable and clean. A big thank you to all the staff at these camps, although calling them camps is underselling the luxury in which I was accommodated, fed and watered. It’s a far, far cry from camping!

India is a subcontinent, filled with fascinating places to see, things to do and going on safari in search of tigers turned out to be one of the best tours I have done with Mercury Holidays. Going in the heat of May also helped as the animals were out and about in the early hours in search of water, but that meant I had to get up early too!

But it was worth it to see the birds, and the animals: leopards, guar, jackals, monkeys, deer and, of course, tigers. All in all, my Indian safaris in 2025 have been a huge success and I’d recommend everyone visit these glorious national parks.

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I enjoy visiting national parks so to read more on the conservation of wildlife around the globe please take a look at the following blogs: