Chambers at Large in the Isle of Man (2): Peel and Castletown
- Amelia Chambers
- 6 days ago
- 3 min read
Learning there were castles in the towns of Peel and Castletown, I braved the wind and the rain when setting out to the east of the Isle of Man. Fortunately the bus stopped right outside my hotel so it wasn’t until I reached the small port of Peel that I had to take shelter in a pub for a cup of coffee. The pub was busy at 11am with young lads watching the football, but I quickly learned they had gathered to watch or take part in the longboat races which were being held in the bay that morning. This is a reminder of the island’s Viking heritage and I thought back to the evidence of coinage and weaponry I had seen in the museum in Douglas. There was a festive atmosphere in the town, but the weather was inclement and my priority was to see the castle.
On entering up a reasonably steep pathway, I was told to watch out for rabbit holes when walking around, then given an electronic device allowing me to listen to a self-guided tour. Thankfully it was very easy to operate so, once I’d put on a plastic poncho, I set off across the grassy pathways to explore the castle.
It was constructed by the Vikings in the 11th century and has been a stronghold over the centuries. I explored what remains of the church, a tower, some interior buildings and admired the views of the Irish Sea by standing on bastions around the outer wall.
The audio guide which was extremely easy to use told me of those who had fought here, but I was more taken by the tale of the Moddey Dhoo, a black dog which haunts the grounds. There is a similar tale of a black dog roaming the mountainside where I live which made me wonder if they’re related.
Like Douglas, the port of Peel during World War II had an internment camp, where Joseph Pilates was interned. In order to keep fit and as active as possible in a confined space, he developed his worldwide exercise technique using bed springs.
The rain was persistent so I made my way through the rather empty streets, most people having gathered at the port, passing the decorative town square and caught the bus back to Douglas.
The following day the rain had stopped but it was still overcast when I made my way to what was once the capital city of the island: Castletown, aptly named as Castle Rushen stands proudly in the centre of the town, one of the finest medieval edifices in Europe. Entrance is via a bridge, with an imposing portcullis, and masked murder holes in the adjacent roof.
The history of the castle unfolds by climbing narrow spiral stairways and walking from room to room. A square tower built c1200 by King Reginald Godredsson, a Viking ruler, heralds the beginning of the castle, its main purpose being defence, but it has been a royal residence, a prison and a law court.
It was also a mint where, in the castle smithy, cannons were melted down to make coins, but a fine selection of cannons remain as well as a display of cannonballs.
Unsurprisingly it has a turbulent yet quirky past. Lord of Man, Ferninando Stanley, was allegedly poisoned here and Margaret Inequane was held here for witchcraft before being burned in the town square, the only alleged witch to have been executed on the island. The town square houses is now home to an ancient market cross and a memorial to those who died in the wars.
Just off the square is The House of Keys, the parliament building when Castletown was the capital of the island. It was not open unfortunately, so I made my way to a local eatery, Stanley’s Bistro, named after the family who ruled the island, where I had a fabulous salad for a late lunch with a much deserved glass of wine.
Dodging the showers I took quick walk around Castletown Bay, where signs told me I might see seals, basking sharks and other animals. However, they all remained elusive, but it gives me an excuse to return.
I thoroughly enjoyed my time in the Isle of Man exploring the ports and the castles and would recommend a visit to the island for anyone interested in history, but be prepared for the weather, although there is always the opportunity to take refuge in the pubs and cafes where you can meet the locals and learn even more.
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To learn about my stay in Douglas, now the capital of the island, please click on the link:
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