Chambers at Large in the Isle of Man (3): The Laxey Wheel, Snaefell, Port Erin and Travelling by Bus
- Amelia Chambers
- 7 days ago
- 4 min read
I hadn’t gone to the Isle of Man for the weather and it is thanks to sunny spells and downpours that trees thrive and the fields are fifty shades of green. One drizzly morning I left my hotel and walked a little way to Derby Castle Terminus, at the northern end of the promenade in Douglas, and took the Manx Electric Railway to the town of Laxey.
The carriages have changed little since Victorian times, and it seems that each carriage is different. I travelled on the electric railway a few times and some carriages are more comfortable than others, but the journey is unique and the views of the Irish Sea from the train are stunning. Unfortunately due to the misty weather I couldn’t see the mainland, but I was assured on a fine, sunny day one could.
I made my way to the town of Laxey in order to see The Laxey Wheel, the largest operating water wheel in Europe, maybe the world. This huge feat of Victorian engineering once pumped up water from the mines, where iron, silver and zinc was extracted until the just before the commencement of the Second World War. Designed by the engineer Robert Casement the wheel has another name, Lady Isabella, who was the wife of the governor of the Isle of Man at the time of construction .
I was able to go a little way into the mine to experience the darkness, the damp and the need to crouch a little to avoid hitting my head on the wooden beams. It reminded me of my visit to the mine in Arigna, County Roscommon, near where I live in Ireland. Over 500 men worked on in the mine, plus women and children who worked on the surface. Life was hard. Miners walked considerable distances to work in all weathers and in the winter months barely saw daylight. They had to pay for their own equipment, their own explosives, and many died young due to lung diseases. Those who were injured had to rely on charitable organisations and family as there was no welfare state.
In contrast, the area around the mine is lovely. A far cry from the harshness of previous years. A waterfall runs alongside the viaduct and the river flows through the valley. I didn’t take the trail around the mine as the weather had worsened. The rain was pouring down, so I made my way to the local tearooms for a healthy lunch, then back to the railway station passing by a statue of a miner, a tribute to all those who worked in the mines.
Waking the following morning the weather forecast showed the chance of sunny spells, so once again I took the electric railway to Laxey, then changed trains in order to go to the highest peak on the island: Snaefell. On a clear day it is said one can see the seven kingdoms: England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales, the Isle of Man, the Kingdom of Heaven and the Kingdom of the Sea. I saw the latter three, but the view was beautiful and well worth the trip.
The train passes by Bungalow, a great view point for the TT Race, held every year on the island, another abandoned mine and I got another view of the Laxey Wheel.
I had been enthralled with all the quirky trips I could take, whether by the electric railway, the electric tram or, finally, by the steam train from the railway station in Douglas to Port Erin.
The railway station is a marvellous example of a red brick Victorian building and on the platform there were holiday posters, reminiscences of the past documenting when people flocked to the island for their summer sojourn.
The steam train took an hour to go the 15 miles from Douglas to Port Erin and, like thousands of tourists before me, I gazed out of the windows onto the verdant countryside, across the sea and watched the steam dissipate into the air.
I wandered around the small town of Port Erin, taking a stroll along the promenade and on the beach at the end of which are seaside huts and a lighthouse.
I planned to walk to the next town of Port St Mary, but once again rain threatened so I took the bus which passed through the town, giving great views of the harbour and a wonderful drive along the coast road.
I have to praise Bus Vannin and all of those who work on the transport system in the Isle of Man. I saw everything I wanted to see, and more, thanks to the buses, trams and trains. I’d recommend doing what I did: buy a Go Explore card, which allowed me entry to almost all of the sites on the island and allowed me unlimited travel. It was great value for money and I made the most of it.
Parking on the island is a bit of a nightmare and I was pleased I left my car at home as the bus driver could keep his eyes on the road, whilst I could enjoy views over the hedgerows. Kudos to all at Bus Vannin who literally keep the wheels turning and who have a sense of humour.
Announcements and destination indicators on the bus make everyone aware of the next stop, but Bus Vannin goes a step further. Passing over a Fairy Bridge passengers are asked to greet the mythical creatures with a cheerful “Hello Fairies!” When exiting the stop at the airport the automated voice wishes travellers who are dismounting a safe journey. It was all these wee quirky additions that made travelling by bus a real pleasure.
The island is filled with history, easily accessible and there is plenty to see and do. I enjoyed my week and have to thank all those at the Regency Hotel who made my stay most pleasurable. Keep up the great work and in a few years I will be back.
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To read more about my week on the Isle of Man, please click on the following links:
I mention the mine at Arigna, Country Roscommon in Ireland in this blog. Please click on the link to read more about this attraction as it's well worth a visit.