Situated on the Mediterranean coast the city of Barcelona is a delight with plenty to see and do. I was only there for three days and had booked two sites well in advance: the Basilica de la Sagrada Familia and the Picasso Museum. I was very glad I did.
Years ago when travelling I would simply turn up at a place, pay the entry fee and go in. Things are no longer that simple due to an increase in the global population and tourist numbers.
The Sagrada Familia is a cathedral designed by the Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi who dedicated 43 years of his life to the project. I am adding it to my list of buildings around the world that are truly spectacular and worth seeing.
Building started in 1882 and is ongoing, hence the cranes in the photographs. Gaudi constructed to-scale models of his vision as well as detailed written plans, and these are still being followed. The final tower is being constructed and hopefully the basilica will be finished in 2026 I’m sure there will be great celebrations and I hope to visit the finished product. I took the guided tour which was well worth the extra money, and will be put to the construction costs and upkeep of this fascinating building.
Once surrounded by parkland the area is quite built up, but Barcelona doesn’t have skyrise buildings, therefore the towers of the basilica extend far higher than everything else in the immediate area and all are different, some crowned with a pinnacle of Venetian glass in different shapes that represent a bishop’s mitre, a cross, a crosier and a ring. The six central towers have symbolic depictions of the four Evangelists (Matthew, Mark, Luke and John); the Virgin Mary and the tallest, Jesus Christ.
The outside of the building is decorated with sculptures, intricate carvings and bas reliefs depicting Christ’s life. He built plaster models of the sculptures before carving them in stone and he actually features in profile near one of the large doors.
Inside the basilica is magnificent mainly due to its orderliness. Gaudi used the number 7.5 as a base. The railing for the choirs is 15 metres (7.5 metres x 2); the vaults on the side naves are 30 metres (7.5 metres x 4). The highest point of the apse is 75 metres (7.5 metres x 10) and the total length of the basilica is 90 metres (7.5 metres x 12). There is no apparent reason for this number, no symbolic significance, but the geometric repetition creates a wonderful symmetry.
Fascinated with nature the interior of the basilica was seen by Gaudi as a huge forest. The columns are tree trunks reaching up to the foliage of the stain glass windows through which filters the sunlight. Some of the stain glass windows are circles, similar to the sun or planets.
Gaudi himself is interred in the crypt which was not open to the public on the day I visited. I didn’t go up the tower either, leaving that for another day, but I was rewarded with one of the most beautiful sights. When the sun shines through the stain glass windows the colours of the glass are cast onto the stone work creating a rainbow effect. Absolutely stunning, proving Gaudi to be an amazing architect, a real genius.
A few other unusual features caught my eye. Near one of the doorways the Lord’s Prayer is written in several languages. “Give us this day our daily bread” is written in English.
Outside a bas relief of a number puzzle is carved in stone. Horizontally, vertically and diagonally the numbers add up to 33, the age when Christ was crucified. (There are other patterns too where the numbers add up to 33).
In contrast to the modern basilica is Barcelona Cathedral which dates back to the 13th century. It is similar to many other cathedrals, the main nave being surrounded by small chapels dedicated to numerous saints. However, to my surprise the cloisters were home to a flock of geese who were dozing in the early evening sun. They were so still I initially thought the white birds were merely decorative ornaments until one suddenly opened its eyes and stared right at me!
The Picasso Museum is located within a warren of streets that make up the old town and houses some of his earlier work, which is far removed from his later modern work, which is also shown.
The artist lived and studied in Barcelona and his landscapes within reminded me of the view from my hotel, overlooking the rooftops of the city and the woodland beyond.
I stayed at the Hotel El Castell in Sant Boi, a few kilometres from the city centre, which was excellent and the small town is a delight to walk around.
The man was prolific and I was captivated by some of his drawings and sketches which depicted the people of the city and were later the subject of his paintings.
His ceramic dishes are vibrant as are his views from a window featuring pigeons, but I was also taken by one particular sketch of a horse which reminded me of the animal featured in his war painting: Guernica, housed in the Modern Art Gallery in Madrid.
September 11th is of course a day of remembrance for many due to the destruction of the twin towers in New York. However it is also the National Day of Catalonia, a holiday in the region, celebrating or lamenting the end of siege of Barcelona during the War of the Spanish Succession in 1714. This meant that the central streets were closed to traffic allowing people to make their way to the city centre, some waving the Catalan flag, others simply enjoying a day off work either wining and dining or shopping in the myriad of small businesses which remained open.
St James’ Square, the home of several government buildings, was busy as was the main street, Las Ramblas. Not one for crowds I made my way out of the city back to the hotel to enjoy a glass of wine, the local wine being a perfect end to a lovely day.
Three days is not enough in Barcelona and as I’ve much more to see and do, it won’t be long before I return.
As usual another interesting and fact packed blog
fascinating