Chambers at Large in Malta and Gozo (2)

Amelia Chambers
16 minutes ago
3 min read

Malta has been invaded a few times over the centuries, the Ottomans making an attempt in the 16^th century. They were thwarted by the Knights of St John, a Christian military order that had been given the islands by Charles V of Spain.

In 1565 the island was held under siege by the Ottomans outnumbering the knights by thousands, BUT after four months a relief force from Spain forced the Ottomans to withdraw, halting the expansion of the Ottoman Empire. The victory led to the founding of the city of Valetta named after the Grand Master de Valette. It is a fortified city set high up on the island, but very walkable if you don’t mind a hill or two.

The views over the harbour are magnificent, the marinas filled with yachts and cruisers. I took a cruise around the harbour to get a different perspective of the island, noticing the sandstone walls, its eclectic architecture, and domed churches.

Napoleon seized Malta in 1798, but French rule proved unpopular and with assistance from the UK the French garrison surrendered in 1800 and the island became a British protectorate.

What I did know about Malta was that the people of the island were awarded the George Cross for their bravery and resilience during World War II. Between 1940 and 1942 Malta endured one of the most intense bombing campaigns from Italy and Germany and when I visited the War Museum in Valletta I learned of the hardship the Maltese faced.

It was Winston Churchill, who refused to cede the island, insisted on one last push to aid the Maltese. With the help of President Roosevelt Operation Pedestal sent an oil tanker the USS Ohio and a flotilla of supporting ships and submarines from Scotland through the Strait of Gibraltar, across the Mediterranean to Malta. The convoy was repeatedly bombed from the air and all but five ships were sunk. The loss of life was staggering, but the SS Ohio arrived in Valetta on August 15^th 1942 to cheering crowds. The supplies of food, fuel and medicines were quickly unloaded and Malta was saved from being occupied by the Nazis.

Malta gained its independence in 21^st September 1964, but history of course leaves a legacy. Maltese is similar to Arabic with a smattering of Italian and English. The main religion is Christian and the houses have gallarija, large projecting windows on the upper floors.

In the beautiful village of Marsaxlokk, to the south of the island, I saw many houses with these windows as well as fishing boats with eyes. These were similar to ones I spotted in Cambodia, where I was told the boats fool potential predators. The Sunday morning market was very busy and as I had no intention to buy I admired the square where people were coming out from church to have coffee or lunch in the numerous cafes.

I really enjoyed my eleven days exploring the two islands and I learned a great deal, but it is unfortunate that Malta is now invaded by three million tourists a year. Dare I say, areas are almost as crowded as New Delhi or Jaipur in India.

Living in an area of the world where I could easily not see anyone for a week I barely coped with the crowds in Sliema, Valletta and St Julien, but it was much quieter in Gozo and in St Paul’s Bay, so when visiting, and the islands are definitely worth visiting, bear this in mind.

Thanks for reading and safe travels.

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