Chambers at Large in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan

I’ve wanted to “travel” the Silk Road for several years,  and was given the opportunity via Mercury Holidays.  A big shout out to them as the three week tour through Five Stans proved to be an experience of a lifetime, beginning with some terrible turbulence on the approach to Bishkek airport.  Thanks to Turkish Airlines, one of the better companies I have flown with, the plane landed safely and I was welcomed by snowcapped mountains, green fields and clear blue skies.  Kyrgyzstan’s stunning scenery boded well for the future.

As usual I had done very little research in advance, much preferring to learn as I go, but I certainly wasn’t prepared for Bishkek, the capital city, with its tree line avenues, beautiful buildings, marvellous monuments and animated streets where people were keen to chat.

The country was under Soviet control between 1918 to 1991 when it gained its independence.  An independence it was not prepared for, but recent political stability and revenue from a now state owned gold mine, one of the largest and highest in the world, has placed the country well and truly in the 21^st century.

Millions of trees have been planted around the city, home to 1.3 million people out of a population of 70 million, and construction of apartments, a larger bus station and a new market is testament to how the city is thriving.

One noticeable feature is the secularisation of the city.  Beer and wine are readily available in many hotels, restaurants and cafés and the food is delicious.  Due to several universities there were a number of young people out and about and although the main religion is Muslim, not all the women wear a hijab, and many people of all ages are dressed in what I would call Western fashions.  I was very surprised to learn that many couples are marrying later in life, around 30 years of age, and the divorce rate is 40%.  Truly a 21^st century city!

A visit to the local market was a treat. Filled with customers purchasing foodstuffs, lottery tickets, clothes and hardware, there wasn’t anything that could not be bought.  One young man who was aiding his mother selling bread was very keen to chat, wanting to practice his English, which he learned in school.  ‘It’s my favourite subject,’ he told me and I encouraged him to keep chatting to the tourists as much as possible, then he would soon be fluent.

Another young man offered me a small piece of bread he had made and which I later learned how to make when outside the city.  Others showed how the loaves were decorated with a large iron stamp pressed into the soft dough.  The bread is delicious and I was then offered some sausage by a woman, which I accepted, thinking it rude not to.  It was strong tasting and I’m semi-convinced it was horsemeat, although it’s not the first time I’ve eaten horse!

There is no metro or subway in Bishkek, the bus being the main form of public transport, and I was struck by the bus stops which are covered shelters with seats, neon signs advertising anything from cars, to soft drinks, even concert tickets for Shakira who was visiting the following week!  I am sending pictures of these structures to the Department of Transport in Ireland as the bus shelters near me are either non-existent or a disgrace!  The advertising alone would finance them!

The history of Soviet Russia is still noticeable in the rectangular architecture and busts of notable figures who served Kyrgyzstan are commemorated in a local park.  A statue of Vladimir Lenin, once in a prominent position has been moved to a quieter spot as has a statue of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels.  There is debate that these should be removed altogether but I am very much against that.  If history is hidden then there is the chance it will be forgotten, rewritten, or worse: repeated.  It is integral people know of these historic men, their works and the results of their teachings.

Independence did not come easily to Kyrgyzstan and a local square was the scene of revolution in 2010, when 86 people were killed, and 2020 where one man was slain.  The square is a peaceful place now, beautifully landscaped with fountains and pristine marble buildings, but outside carved in marble tablets are the names of those who died.

To end my day in the capital I was treated to the changing of the guard.  All young men have to do a year’s military service between the ages of eighteen and twenty-seven.  There are no exceptions although men studying at university can do classes in order to serve and complete their year.

Bishkek is a beautiful city.  Very walkable and I found it to be good value for money.  Dollars and euros are widely accepted alongside the local currency, the som.  As one café owner pointed out, money is money and cash is king.  It seems some things have not changed since caravans of merchants traded their wares in this city and in many others on their way to Europe.  The “Financial Silk Road” is very much alive and kicking!